100年前の生地見本帳の写真

100 year old fabric sample book

We have created our own fabrics based on a 100 year old French fabric sample book. This sample book, published by Claude Frères & Co. (J. & CO., Paris), is a collection of shirt fabric samples from that period.


Fabric swatches from 100 years ago

Fabric sample book of historical value

This sample book is very valuable and is kept in museums around the world. The book we refer to here was created in 1907 and is more than 100 years old. Some fabric sample books are kept in museums around the world.



Sample book from 1907

 

Fabric book produced in 1907.

 

Samples of fabrics that form the basis of the Prequel

 

With eight fabric samples pasted on each page, the book offers a wealth of samples spanning more than 100 pages.


Enlarged photo of fabric swatches

Fabric with a distinctive pineapple pattern

One of the most eye-catching fabrics in the sample book is a woven fabric with a pineapple-like design. This design has a unique appeal that cannot be found in modern fabrics.


Analysis data of old fabrics

Detailed Analysis and Reproduction of the Fabric

First, we disassembled this fabric and analyzed the threads used. Based on the results of our analysis of 100-year-old yarns, we then created an original fabric for the present day.


Thread thickness

Reproduction of firm fabric texture

To make the fabric sturdier than the vintage sample, we doubled the number of warp and weft yarns. This results in a firm and sturdy fabric with a degree of filling.

 

Backside of old fabric

Improvement of floating threads

On the reverse side of the vintage sample, there were many parts where the threads were floating in order to create a pattern. If we reproduced them as they are, they would easily snag and damage the fabric. We have improved the pattern by reducing the size of the threads to prevent snagging.


Analysis of yarn dyeing method

Dyeing like a traditional Japanese technique

When we analyzed the vintage fabric, we found that it was dyed with an uneven texture, just like traditional Japanese kasuri dyeing.


Enlarged photo of graze dyeing

 

It is hard to tell just by looking at it, but this dyeing method is what makes the pattern so attractive that way.

 

Data on fabric structure

Simulation of the original weave and color

We analyzed the structure of vintage fabrics and devised an original weaving method. We held numerous meetings with fabric makers to determine how we could create a fabric with an appeal that would surpass that of vintage fabrics.


Color simulation of the original fabric used in the prequel

We also repeatedly simulated color schemes to determine the final colors.

 

Yarn dyeing sample

Trial dyeing and final color decisions

Yarns were test-dyed, and final colors were determined while checking minute differences in color. After repeated trial and error, the ideal color was achieved.


Enlarged photo of yarn dyeing sample

 Trial dyeing also proceeded, checking for subtle differences.

 

Fabric sample book

Completed original fabric

Here is the original fabric completed after the trial weaving process, which has a modern appeal while maintaining the atmosphere of the 100-year-old fabric.

 

Comparison of new and old fabrics

Even the floating threads on the reverse side are as expected.

 

Comparison of 100 year old fabric and new shirts

The band collar shirt made from this original fabric is a piece that you will love for a long time. Please enjoy its charm.

 

 

Prequel banded collar shirt

S1001 Stand-up Collar Shirt
COLOR : Beige / Blue / Brown
SIZE : 36/38/40/42/44/46/48
QUALITY : Cotton 100%

 

 

 

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